If you have a craving for Italian cooking at home in the mountain town of Stowe, you no longer have to slave over a hot stove for hours to make the perfect sauce, or fly in your friend’s grandmother from the Old World.
Sauce, the new specialty shop in town, has you covered.
Owned by Sharon Herbert, the space at 407 Mountain Road — which previously housed Café Latina and Thompson’s Flour Shop — has been transformed into an open, welcoming wood-framed shop with deli cases, a “hot table” and shelves stocked with all kinds of goodies.
There’s a handful of tables inside and a few more on the patio if you want to eat there. One wall, done up in chalkboard paint, bears inviting and enticing messages, imploring “Mangia! Mangia!” and touting “il dolce far niente” — the sweetness of idleness, probably referring to languidly sipping Prosecco while savoring slips of fat-streaked prosciutto and soft clouds of fresh mozzarella.
It’s not meant to be a deli, per se, but Sauce does feature some trappings of an Italian-American delicatessen — creamy hand-stretched mozzarella, made fresh daily; several kinds of olives; platters of roasted and marinated vegetables sold by the pound; prosciutto, sliced thin and wrapped perfectly so it doesn’t stick together.
On the day of the soft opening last Friday, owner Sharon Herbert was getting a lesson in ham from a true expert: Joe Leone of the eponymous Italian specialty markets in Point Pleasant and Sea Girt in New Jersey. After a personal demonstration of Herbert’s cooking, Joe traveled to Vermont several times to help her perfect her recipes and techniques.
Also on hand were Herbert’s parents, on a working visit from their home in Point Pleasant, N.J. The support of family and friends was evident in the cheery, welcoming atmosphere, and in the events that led Herbert to her dream shop.
Aspirations of attending culinary school were delayed, but not forgotten, as Herbert was encouraged to complete her undergraduate studies at Colby College in Maine. She worked at Burton for more than 10 years, most recently as category manager for bags and luggage. Herbert finally attended the New England Culinary Institute in 2011, earning a bachelor’s degree in hospitality and restaurant management while working full-time at Burton.
“The switch was a long time coming,” Herbert said. “A few months after graduating, I spotted the location at 407 Mountain Road and knew it was the right spot, so I made the jump!”
Sauce and more
The sauce starts at $7.99 for a quart of marinara. An American-Italian take on meat sauce made with beef, pork and veal goes for $10.99. A classic Bolognese — veal, pork, pancetta, with a bit of cream — is $11.99, and the “Sunday gravy,” loaded with sausage, pork and beef, will set you back nearly $20.
Large meatballs, sold in packs of two or more, round out the red sauce coterie.
Fresh housemade pappardelle pasta is available to eat your sauce on, plus a variety of Rustichella D’Abruzzo and DeCecco dry pastas in many shapes, including two gluten-free corn offerings.
Bread from Elmore Mountain is available, and the freezer is stocked with several varieties of ravioli and Italian sausages. A wooden cart in the center of the shop, handmade by Herbert’s brother, bears a collection of fine olive oils and vinegars.
For people with a sweet tooth, there are frozen sorbet-filled oranges and tiramisu cups. Don’t miss the homemade cannoli — robust rolled pastries filled with rich ricotta cream and dotted with chocolate chips. There’s even a miniature duo of dog-friendly cannoli-shaped treats for your lucky canini.
A small wine selection, chosen by Herbert’s sommelier friend, carries Italian offerings for all palates, ranging in price from about $10 to $25, with one Brunello di Montalcino bearing a handwritten tag inscribed with “He/she’s worth it” and a $53.99 sticker. Stowe Ciders and a smattering of micro- and macro-brews, including Peroni lager from Italy, round out the beverage selection.
The deli case bears premade sandwiches, grilled veggies, chicken cutlets and sautéed broccolini with garlic, and in the afternoons, a hot table will be laden with dishes such as chicken parmesan, eggplant rollatini and fresh meatballs.
A familiar face is running the kitchen — chef Jimmy Kalp, who honed his skills at Frida’s Taqueria and Blue Moon Café in Stowe.
Sauce will eventually be open five days a week, Tuesday-Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., but not until the staff is filled out. Herbert is seeking additional full-time and part-time help all-around, and potential prep cooks, dishwashers, cashiers and hosts are encouraged to apply.
“We are very excited to be open full time and looking forward to meeting everyone,” Herbert said.
Sauce, 407 Mountain Road, saucevt.com; fb.com/saucevermont.
Email Sharon@saucevt.com for employment inquiries.
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